Kathy Lee Peiss's Books

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When Librarians, Soldiers, and Spies Banded Together in World War II Europe

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

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When Librarians, Soldiers, and Spies Banded Together in World War II Europe

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

The country of the mind must also attack -- Librarians and collectors go to war -- The wild scramble for documents -- Acquisitions on a Grand Scale -- Fugitive Records of War -- Book Burning-American Style -- Not a Library, but a Large Depot of Loot.

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297

Published Date

ISBN 10

0190944617

ISBN 13

9780190944612

Hope in a Jar

The Making of America's Beauty Culture

By: Kathy Peiss

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Hope in a Jar

The Making of America's Beauty Culture

By: Kathy Peiss

How did powder and paint, once scorned as immoral, become indispensable to millions of respectable women? How did a "kitchen physic," as homemade cosmetics were once called, become a multibillion-dollar industry? And how did men finally take over that rarest of institutions, a woman's business? In Hope in a Jar, historian Kathy Peiss gives us the first full-scale social history of America's beauty culture, from the buttermilk and rice powder recommended by Victorian recipe books to the mass-produced products of our contemporary consumer age. She shows how women, far from being pawns and victims, used makeup to declare their freedom, identity, and sexual allure as they flocked to enter public life. And she highlights the leading role of white and black women—Helena Rubenstein and Annie Turnbo Malone, Elizabeth Arden and Madame C. J. Walker—in shaping a unique industry that relied less on advertising than on women's customs of visiting and conversation. Replete with the voices and experiences of ordinary women, Hope in a Jar is a richly textured account of the ways women created the cosmetics industry and cosmetics created the modern woman.

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Page Count

347

Publisher

University of Pennsylvania Press

Published Date

ISBN 10

081220574X

ISBN 13

9780812205749

Cheap Amusements

By: Kathy Peiss

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Cheap Amusements

By: Kathy Peiss

What did young, independent women do for fun and how did they pay their way into New York City's turn-of-the-century pleasure places? Cheap Amusements is a fascinating discussion of young working women whose meager wages often fell short of bare subsistence and rarely allowed for entertainment expenses. Kathy Peiss follows working women into saloons, dance halls, Coney Island amusement parks, social clubs, and nickelodeons to explore the culture of these young women between 1880 and 1920 as expressed in leisure activities. By examining the rituals and styles they adopted and placing that culture in the larger context of urban working-class life, she offers us a complex picture of the dynamics shaping a working woman's experience and consciousness at the turn-of-the-century. Not only does her analysis lead us to new insights into working-class culture, changing social relations between single men and women, and urban courtship, but it also gives us a fuller understanding of the cultural transformations that gave rise to the commercialization of leisure. The early twentieth century witnessed the emergence of "heterosocial companionship" as a dominant ideology of gender, affirming mixed-sex patterns of social interaction, in contrast to the nineteenth century's segregated spheres. Cheap Amusements argues that a crucial part of the "reorientation of American culture" originated from below, specifically in the subculture of working women to be found in urban dance halls and amusement resorts.

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Page Count

257

Publisher

Temple University Press

Published Date

ISBN 10

0877225001

ISBN 13

9780877225003

Zoot Suit

The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style

By: Kathy Peiss

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Zoot Suit

The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style

By: Kathy Peiss

ZOOT SUIT (n.): the ultimate in clothes. The only totally and truly American civilian suit. —Cab Calloway, The Hepster's Dictionary, 1944 Before the fashion statements of hippies, punks, or hip-hop, there was the zoot suit, a striking urban look of the World War II era that captivated the imagination. Created by poor African American men and obscure tailors, the "drape shape" was embraced by Mexican American pachucos, working-class youth, entertainers, and swing dancers, yet condemned by the U.S. government as wasteful and unpatriotic in a time of war. The fashion became notorious when it appeared to trigger violence and disorder in Los Angeles in 1943—events forever known as the "zoot suit riot." In its wake, social scientists, psychiatrists, journalists, and politicians all tried to explain the riddle of the zoot suit, transforming it into a multifaceted symbol: to some, a sign of social deviance and psychological disturbance, to others, a gesture of resistance against racial prejudice and discrimination. As controversy swirled at home, young men in other places—French zazous, South African tsotsi, Trinidadian saga boys, and Russian stiliagi—made the American zoot suit their own. In Zoot Suit, historian Kathy Peiss explores this extreme fashion and its mysterious career during World War II and after, as it spread from Harlem across the United States and around the world. She traces the unfolding history of this style and its importance to the youth who adopted it as their uniform, and at the same time considers the way public figures, experts, political activists, and historians have interpreted it. This outré style was a turning point in the way we understand the meaning of clothing as an expression of social conditions and power relations. Zoot Suit offers a new perspective on youth culture and the politics of style, tracing the seam between fashion and social action.

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Page Count

249

Publisher

University of Pennsylvania Press

Published Date

ISBN 10

081220459X

ISBN 13

9780812204599

Reshaping the Female Body

The Dilemma of Cosmetic Surgery

By: Kathy Davis

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Reshaping the Female Body

The Dilemma of Cosmetic Surgery

By: Kathy Davis

Reshaping... looks at women's involvement in cosmetic surgery and raises the question of why women put themselves under the knife for operations which are painful, risky and expensive and often leave them in worse shape than before.

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Page Count

210

Publisher

Routledge

Published Date

ISBN 10

1135207003

ISBN 13

9781135207007

Information Hunters

When Librarians, Soldiers, and Spies Banded Together in World War II Europe

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

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Information Hunters

When Librarians, Soldiers, and Spies Banded Together in World War II Europe

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

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Page Count

297

Published Date

ISBN 10

0190944617

ISBN 13

9780190944612

Zoot Suit

The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style

By: Kathy Peiss

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Zoot Suit

The Enigmatic Career of an Extreme Style

By: Kathy Peiss

Traces the history of the zoot suit during World War II and after, as it spread from Harlem across the United States and around the world, offering a new perspective on youth culture and the politics of style.

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Page Count

238

Published Date

ISBN 10

0812223039

ISBN 13

9780812223033

Hope in a Jar

The Making of America's Beauty Culture

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

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Hope in a Jar

The Making of America's Beauty Culture

By: Kathy Lee Peiss

Chronicles the use of cosmetics by women, describing the way their motivations have changed over history and how the concept of beauty has been redefined

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Page Count

334

Published Date

ISBN 10

0805055509

ISBN 13

9780805055504

Book's by Kathy Lee Peiss

Information Hunters

Information Hunters

Hope in a Jar

Hope in a Jar

Cheap Amusements

Cheap Amusements

Zoot Suit

Zoot Suit

Reshaping the Female Body

Reshaping the Female Body

Information Hunters

Information Hunters

Zoot Suit

Zoot Suit

Hope in a Jar

Hope in a Jar

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