Many books have been written about acne, but all focus on drug therapy. Unfortunately, the possibilities of modern skincare and aesthetic tools in helping patients with acne are still underestimated. We decided to correct this injustice and created a book in which we present skincare and aesthetic tools, methods, and approaches to preventing and treating this disease. The application of each method is justified in terms of the pathogenesis of acne and is supported by research findings. Describing the events that unfold in the skin after a particular treatment helps in elucidating its clinical possibilities and limitations. Significant advantages of the book are clear language (although we write about complicated things and use medical and scientific terminology, the information can be understood even by laypeople) and structure (all cause-and-effect connections become apparent, there is a complete understanding of what needs to be done and why). The book consists of four parts. The first part discusses the clinical signs and stages of acne and distinguishes the acne types amenable to skincare treatments from those that are not. The second part deals with the diagnosis of acne. It presents recommendations on visual examination and anamnesis collection and discusses the need for clarifying laboratory test results. Much attention is paid to the differential diagnosis of acne with dermatoses like Malassezia folliculitis, rosacea, and demodicosis. The third part presents the factors contributing to the development of acne, explains the pathogenesis of this disease, and outlines the targets to be treated and prevented. The fourth part is devoted to the practical use of skincare and aesthetic tools and methods at different acne stages — oily skin, non-inflammatory and inflammatory acne, and post-acne. The clinical effects of topical skincare products, injectables, cosmetic devices, and nutraceuticals are discussed.
Much has been written about lasers, but only a few books cover laser cosmetic dermatology from beginning to end. We decided to address this gap and collected all the information that would be useful for specialists in this book. It focuses on modern laser and photodynamic technologies and deals in detail with various issues concerning high-energy and low-intensity devices. The book consists of three parts. In the first part, we explain the nature of laser radiation and provide a general understanding of how a laser device is constructed. A separate chapter is devoted to the interaction of laser radiation with the skin — the targets and mechanisms of laser action and the essence of photothermolysis. This part also considers the features of intense pulse light (IPL) treatment, low-level laser therapy (LLLT), and photodynamic therapy (PDT). The second part is devoted to practical issues — the specific capabilities of light-based and photodynamic technologies. The entire spectrum of dermatological and aesthetic problems in which lasers and IPL devices yield significant results are considered. These are laser rejuvenation, removal of benign growths, treatment of vascular and pigmentation disorders, scars, acne, psoriasis, and onychomycosis, as well as tattoo, unwanted hair (epilation), and fat deposit removal. In this part, we also discuss the current perspectives on the combination of laser treatment and injectable procedures, and the possibilities of using lasers for the transdermal delivery of active ingredients. A separate chapter on complications associated with laser procedures and ways to reduce their risks concludes the second part. The third part touches on some key organizational aspects, such as requirements for safe operation and the choice of laser devices.
Pigment spots are the third most common issue addressed by skincare specialists. Both young and elderly clients come with this complaint, many not for the first time. Therefore, specialists who can effectively resolve these problems will undoubtedly be in demand and achieve well-deserved recognition. This book provides complete and reliable information that will help you build a truly effective and safe program for treating pigmented lesions. The book consists of four parts. The first part describes the nature and mechanisms of pigmentation formation, both constitutive (fixed genetically) and facultative (caused by internal or external influences). The stages of melanogenesis, the current understanding of melanocyte physiology and melanin functions, and differences in skin types between people of different ethnic groups are discussed in detail. Special attention is given to factors influencing pigmentation: hormones, stress, inflammation, nutrients, and ultraviolet radiation. Moreover, "new" factors, such as visible light, infrared radiation, and air pollutants, are discussed clearly and comprehensively. This part concludes with a chapter on the evolution of pigmentation. All this information will give you an in-depth understanding of the nature of pigmentation lesions and, thus, the possibilities of effectively combating them. The second part presents clinical types of dyschromia and describes methods for assessing pigmentation. The third and largest part of the book is devoted to methods of pigmentation prevention and treatment available in skincare practice. Modern depigmenting and exfoliating cosmetic products and the dermal targets on which they act are discussed in detail. Also covered are outdated and dangerous ingredients that can still be found on the market. Separate sections are devoted to sunscreens and antioxidants because they are no less important than bleaching agents in the modern concept of working with pigmentation lesions. Furthermore, in this part, the possibilities of physical methodsare discussed with a detailed description of lasers and IPL devices. These methods allow both pigment-producing and pigment-distributing cells of superficial and deep lesions to be targeted. Injection procedures are also touched upon, focusing on their real possibilities and risks, as well as nutraceuticals for skin lightening with proven effectiveness. The last, fourth part, is devoted to treating vitiligo as the most common variant of hypomelanosis. Many different methods and approaches are used for its treatment, which is also relevant for other acquired pathologies associated with loss of pigment or melanocyte function. The book is intended for aestheticians, skincare specialists, dermatologists, specialists in aesthetic medicine, students at medical schools, and all interested persons.
When people talk about aesthetic devices, they primarily mean high-energy technologies such as lasers, intense pulsed light (IPL), high-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU), radio frequency (RF), etc., but this unfairly overlooks low-energy therapy. Low-energy devices (referred to as cosmetic devices) are the most widespread in skincare practice. If you understand how they work, they can be used to achieve aesthetic results that are just as significant as those produced by high-energy devices. We created this book to explain how the most popular non-invasive skincare methods — modern low-energy microcurrent, ultrasound (US), and light-emitting diode (LED) therapy — work. In our book, there are no duty words from leaflets, which you can find in many manual guides for devices. We have collected scientifically valid information about all these methods. Only by understanding how they act can you achieve the best results. We explain simply and in detail what electricity, ultrasound (US), and light are and how they affect the skin. We discuss which parameters are essential and which are just marketing claims. We tell you what results can be achieved with microcurrent, US therapy and peeling, sonophoresis, and LED therapy, as well as what you should not expect from these approaches and what technologies they should be distinguished from. In addition, we cover the increasingly popular plasma therapy — exposure of the skin to low-temperature plasma (so-called cold plasma). Everything you need to know about these devices and methods to understand them and perform effective treatments is in this book.
Patients with sensitive skin often pose a problem for skincare specialists. First, as their complaints are often subjective — burning, itching, tightness, and tingling, which cannot be seen with the naked eye — it is not always clear what to work with and how to diagnose and evaluate the therapy outcomes. Second, for many people, skin hypersensitivity is typically initiated by cosmetics, which is the main skincare tool, so skincare practitioners may avoid such clients who likely expect cosmetics used in treatment to only make things worse. Yet, this is not the case, as the right cosmetic care and treatment can take away the unpleasant symptoms, thereby contributing to a significant improvement in the quality of life for people with sensitive skin. This book was created to help dermatologists and other skincare professionals better understand this syndrome, allowing them to tailor their correction protocols to each case. For this purpose, we have gathered as much up-to-date information as possible, given that research in recent years has helped to make significant advances in our understanding of this condition. Why do not all patients with sensitive skin have problems with the skin barrier, even though it was previously considered a "must"? Why is hypersensitivity present even though a reduction in nerve endings is found in many patients? Does the microbiome influence the development of sensitivity symptoms, and what are the dangers of psychological stress? You will find the answers to these and other questions in our new book. This is important knowledge and new nuances presented within these pages will help you build a truly effective therapy. The main part of the book is devoted to building an effective care strategy for sensitive skin. For this purpose, all complex treatment approaches are considered, from limiting triggers, protection, and cleansing, which are very specific to this condition, to modern therapeutic modalities that affect each of the mechanisms of sensitive skin pathogenesis. As all of them have their own nuances, these will also be discussed in detail. In addition, the peculiarities of diagnosing this condition and how to distinguish it from other skin pathologies — atopic, allergic, contact dermatitis, and rosacea — are provided. Separate sections are devoted to the problems of skin sensitivity with age-related changes, the possibilities of correcting the symptoms of sensitive scalp, as well as psychological help to patients which can be provided by a skincare specialist. These issues are rarely talked about, but addressing them greatly improves the condition of patients with sensitive skin syndrome. Given the wealth of information presented in this book, it will be useful to dermatologists and skincare specialists working with individuals experiencing sensitive skin problems, as well as all interested parties. Of course, it will also help people with sensitive skin to evaluate advertising claims in a balanced way and to base their skincare on reliable information.
Rosacea on average affects 5% of all people on Earth, and couperosis — a problem for a considerable number of fair-skinned people that catches up with them, if not in their youth, then as they age — is one of the symptoms of photoaging. Therefore, any specialist working with skin cannot avoid "encountering" these conditions. However, even though rosacea was regarded exclusively as a dermatological problem for a long time, and couperosis was deemed virtually impossible to cope with, modern research and developments in the field of dermatology give specialists a variety of working tools to correct these unpleasant aesthetic defects. The specialty of our book is that we look at cosmetic approaches that can help patients with rosacea and couperosis. We not only vouch that these approaches work but know from experience that cosmetic care can slow down the progression of these diseases. Thus, it not only saves patients from aggressive dermatologic treatment but also significantly improves their quality of life. This publication will detail the current understanding of the etiology and pathogenesis of rosacea. We consider these facts important to know because recent research has dramatically changed the primary image of the disease and the treatment approaches. We now understand that what used to be considered a cure by dermatologists may sometimes worsen the skin condition of rosacea patients. We will thus examine in detail how to build a primary therapy based on these modern findings, what methods and products can be used, and what should be excluded from therapy and care programs offered to patients with rosacea. The same applies to couperosis, as we will once again explain this condition and how it differs from rosacea, allowing specialists to apply the most effective therapy, particularly laser treatment. How do these methods work? How to prepare and protect the skin? Whether there is an effect from topical and injectable methods (and what kind of effect)? All these questions are discussed in detail in the relevant sections. This book is a must-read for all specialists in aesthetic medicine, students pursuing degrees in dermatological specialties, and even patients who want to effectively resolve the problems of rosacea and couperosis.
Botulinum therapy occupies a special place in modern aesthetic medicine, not only as one of the most effective methods with more than 30 years of successful medical history but also as a tool that raises many questions. However, all known medical books on botulinum therapy primarily consider practical aspects — determination of injection points, dosage, etc. While this is certainly valuable information for botulinum therapy practitioners, everyone else is more concerned with other issues — whether botulinum toxin is safe, how it works, what effects can be expected from its use, and how to maximize its duration. These and other essential questions are addressed in our book — no one has ever dealt with botulinum toxin and its possibilities in such detail! We will identify the critical points related to botulinum toxin and its use in clinical practice. After discussing the nature of the active ingredient — botulinum toxin — we will move on to a brief review of commercial preparations, followed by the main factors affecting the treatment efficacy and safety, backed up by references to authoritative scientific studies. We will outline and justify the main directions of applying botulinum toxin for aesthetic and dermatological indications. We will also discuss the specifics of combining botulinum therapy with other injectable and device-based methods within the framework of complex aesthetic programs to prevent and correct age-related skin changes. This book is part of the Cosmetic Dermatology & Skincare Practice book series, covering the most relevant topics in modern dermatology and aesthetic medicine. All books are structured, written in accessible language, and answer critical questions about the problem or technology at hand. The information in this book will be useful to aestheticians, dermatologists, physiotherapists, neurologists, ophthalmologists, and plastic surgeons — both practicing and those just beginning to master botulinum therapy — as well as medical students and all interested parties.
Comprehensive skincare with the help of cosmetic products is the key to maintaining health and youthfulness. Even the most unproblematic skin needs care with properly selected cosmetic products that preserve the skin's own resources and help resist external influences that accelerate aging. Moreover, any popular injection or physical treatment can give maximum effect only if the patient consistently follows a professional and home-based skincare regimen. This is the responsibility of the skincare practitioner, who must be able to not only perform the cosmetic procedure but also help select and explain to the patient the importance of using suitable products for their skin type. This book is dedicated to a detailed review and justification of the importance of all stages of cosmetic care for different skin types — preparation with cleansers and exfoliants, intensive action aimed both at stimulating metabolic processes in the skin and solving various aesthetic problems (e.g., rejuvenation, whitening), and completion of procedures with active cosmetic agents, thereby consolidating the results and increasing the renewed skin's protective potential. We explain in detail how classic and modern products work and why they can be used in some cases and are undesirable in others. We further discuss the most common questions that arise from skincare practitioners and their patients. In addition, separate sections of the book are devoted to skincare for the eyelids, lips, and hands. The book is useful to all professionals working with skin — long-time specialists and novice skincare practitioners, dermatologists, and consultants in selling skincare products, as well as students. In addition, it is of interest to all people who want to have healthy and youthful skin — the publication will expand their understanding of what a beautician does, and why it is so important to provide the necessary care for the skin, and, of course, what exactly it should be.
Chemical peeling (chemoexfoliation) has been among the most popular skincare and cosmetic dermatology treatments for many years. Its popularity is well deserved because it makes it possible to solve different aesthetic problems effectively and with minimal risks. Yes, this is true, but with one caveat: if the peeling is done correctly. "Correctly" means not only the procedure itself. The peel product, skin pre-treatment, and following restorative care must be chosen and performed by a qualified professional in line with the patient's needs and health status. There are many nuances, and the specialist's skill is to consider them all. This book presents all the most important facts you should know and remember when working with chemoexfoliation — from the chemical nature of different peeling agents and their effects on skin cells to the clinical effect, from indications and contraindications to the features of the procedure. The book reflects up-to-date knowledge and views about the purposes, mechanisms of action, and clinical possibilities of chemical peeling with a proven basis. The book consists of four parts. The first part reveals the essence of the method named "chemical peeling" and discusses its clinical capabilities and limitations in general. The second part describes different types of chemical peels — keratolytic, acid, enzymatic, and retinol. Although there are some similarities in the primary clinical outcomes (skin scaling), the peeling agents differ in their chemical nature, targets in the skin, and mechanisms. In addition to general indications and contraindications, each chemical peeling type has peculiarities in the procedure, and our book explains why this is so. The third part discusses the general principles of chemical peeling — the choice of the peel formulation, the skin preparation for the procedure, the procedure itself, and the subsequent rehabilitation. It also includes information about the influence of nutrition on the clinical results of chemical peeling. The fourth part focuses on the usefulness of instrumental assessment of skin conditions before and after the chemical peeling. Objective data on the initial state of the barrier function of the patient's skin helps the practitioner to select the optimal peel product, determine the interval between the procedures, and monitor the skin's recovery. This reduces the risks of unwanted reactions and achieves the best possible clinical results.
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